Cala Pola: The Cove Worth Every Step

Category: Hidden Calas · Hiking · Tossa de Mar Read time: 7 min

Not all the best things in life are easy to reach. Cala Pola is proof that the effort is always, always worth it.

The cove the crowds haven't fully found

There is a hierarchy of beaches on the Costa Brava. At one end: the long, loud, sunlounger-lined strands of Lloret de Mar, heaving from June to September with everything that makes a certain kind of traveller wince. At the other: the secret calas, tucked behind headlands, reachable only on foot or by sea, known mostly to those who live here or have been coming long enough to know where to look.

Cala Pola sits firmly in the second category. A compact, sheltered cove where golden sand meets turquoise water, framed by fragrant pine forest that rolls right down to the shore, it has the quality of a place that rewards those who make the effort to reach it and quietly disappoints those looking for a beach bar and a sunbed attendant. That, as far as we're concerned, is entirely the point.

The sheltered shape of the cove keeps the water exceptionally calm — safe for swimming, and reliably clear enough to snorkel. Don't miss the cave on the left side of the bay as you face the sea — best explored in the morning when the light catches the water inside.

The kind of view that makes you go very quiet.

Two ways to get there — both worth knowing

From Tossa beach along the Camí de Ronda

Start at Platja Gran, the main beach in Tossa de Mar. Head northeast along the boardwalk until you reach Platja Mar Menuda at the far end of town, then follow the Camí de Ronda coastal path north. The footpath presents some steep sections, but the fragrance of pine trees, rosemary and thyme will distract you entirely. After around 3km you'll pass Cala Bona — a tiny, perfect cove worth a quick stop — before the path continues to Cala Pola. Allow around an hour each way at a relaxed pace, more if you linger.

Directly from the apartment through the pine forest via Coll del Sastre

This is my personal favourite — and my regular morning run with the dog. Head up from the apartment through the pine forest to the Coll del Sastre, a ridge with some of the best views of the coastline in either direction. It's a genuinely rewarding climb: steep enough to feel like an achievement, short enough to be back before the morning gets away from you. From the ridge, follow the green walking route down through the campsite and you arrive directly at the cove. If you keep going north from Cala Pola, the trail continues to Cala Giverola — more on that in a moment.

The area around Tossa is extraordinary hiking territory — the Espai Natural Protegit del Massís de Cadiretes offers trails in every direction, and I'll be covering that in a dedicated hiking post soon. For now, know that Cala Pola is both a destination and a waypoint; the walking here is as good as the swimming.

The Camí de Ronda delivers you here. The only problem is leaving.

What to bring — and what not to expect

This is important: come prepared.

The restaurant at Cala Pola is not always open — it depends entirely on the season and whether the campsite is operational. Unlike Cala Giverola, where the ZEL hotel means facilities are more reliably available, Cala Pola operates on its own quiet schedule. Pack water and snacks; treat the restaurant as a bonus if it's open, not a certainty. Parking is limited and can reach €20 per day in peak season — the walk is the smarter option in every respect.

What you will find: a small, beautiful beach, calm water, and on the right day, the particular silence of a cove that most people decided was too much effort to reach. That silence is the point.

Practical checklist:

• Water — at least 1.5 litres per person for the hike

• A picnic — the restaurant may be closed, especially outside July/August

• Snorkelling mask — the water visibility here is exceptional

• Good shoes for the walk — the path involves roots and loose gravel in places

• Arrive early in summer — the cove is small and fills quickly once the sun is high

  
  

A note on Cala Giverola — and a famous neighbour

Keep walking north from Cala Pola and you'll reach Cala Giverola, the next cove along the coast. Nestled between pine-covered mountains just 5 kilometres from Tossa, the site has a wonderfully eccentric history — originally built as a holiday retreat for Swiss postal workers, of all things. Today it's home to the ZEL Costa Brava, Rafa Nadal and Meliá's boutique hotel brand which opened in summer 2024 to considerable fanfare, with Marc Márquez, Marc Gasol and Paz Vega among the opening night guests. The hotel retains the original beach-side tennis courts and a funicular connecting the shore to the hilltop reception — one of the more pleasingly theatrical arrival experiences on the coast.

If you're considering a special night away during your stay, it's worth knowing about. For a quiet day's swimming though, Cala Pola next door wins every time.

Getting there: the options

On foot from the apartment: Up through the pine forest to Coll del Sastre, then down to the cove. Around 45–60 minutes. My recommended approach — you arrive having earned it.

On foot from Tossa beach: Along the Camí de Ronda. Allow 1 hour each way. Spectacular views throughout.

By car: Possible, but parking is limited and peaks at €20/day in season. Arrive before 9am in July and August.

By boat: A glass-bottomed boat runs from Tossa in season. A lovely option for the return leg. Take your phone — the boat does not automatically stop; you'll need to flag it down.

The details

Location: Cala Pola, 17320 Tossa de Mar, Girona From the apartment: 45–60 min on foot via Coll del Sastre From Tossa beach: ~1 hour via Camí de Ronda Facilities: Small restaurant (open in season — not guaranteed). Bring your own food and water to be safe. Swimming: Excellent. Calm, sheltered, clear. Safe for children. Snorkelling: Highly recommended — explore the cave on the left. Dogs: Permitted outside peak season. Check local restrictions June–September. Nearest backup facilities: Continue 1km to Cala Giverola / ZEL hotel.

There are more calas along this coastline than one post can do justice to. A full guide to the hidden coves between Tossa and Sant Feliu — including how to reach the ones that don't appear on Google Maps — is coming soon.

Staying with us in Tossa? The apartment is your base for all of this. We'll tell you exactly which path to take, where to stop on the ridge, and which cove to swim in on your way back.